Alternator On Car testing

I did my test on a Mazda 323 1985. First we checked wether the warning light operates or not so that if theres any problem we can knw abt it then all the accesories were turned off so that while carrying any test related to the battery the accesories doesnot lose there memory. Then we carrie dout visual checks to see if there was any lose connection  or wire. We also checked the alternator mounting that wether it was alright or not.
     Then we did a no load test on the battery. In this test the engine was turned OFF. We connected the voltmeter across the terminals of the battery it was found to be 12.5V. the voltage was perfect as to doany sorts of test battery must heave atleast 12.4V cause at 12.4 V the state of charge is 50% which is essential. Then we turned the engine on while the voltmeter was attached across the terminals of the battery . Then we let the reading of voltmeter rise till it stops rising . It was found out to be 14.7V and amp output was 7.2 A
Then we did the Load Test on the alternator. The spec for this test was OCV + .5 Volts. This is beacuse when the car is onand theres load as well then battery needs to provide voltage to support the load as well.
Then we switched on the accesories of the car and then we measured the voltage under load.
It was found to be less than that of the spec this meant that the battery is not able to provide enough voltage to support the load.

Then we did the voltage drop test.In this the enginge should be runnign at around 1500 revs And all accesories except vipers and stereo must be on.
Then we checked the voltage drop between following points

• battery positive terminal and alternator output ( Spec 0.2 V )
• battery negative and alternator body ( Spec 0.2 V )

All the tests clarified that the battery was alright but the only problem was that it was not providing enough voltage to support the load